Couture and Corsets

We chatted to 2009 Fashion Design graduate Belinda on her love of corsets and her romantic couture.

What is it that you enjoy about designing and making fashion pieces that incorporate corsets and bodices?
I first fell in love with corsets when I first saw Moulin Rouge at age 13. Since then I had been waiting for the day when I’d be able to create something as romantic, beautiful and feminine. Corsetry has a rich history and is still glorified today by burlesque & pin-up models such as Dita Von Teese and is always embraced on the red carpet at the Oscars and for costumes of the stage and film industries. It’s still celebrated by Haute Couture designers, namely John Galliano (for Dior), Jean Paul Gaultier, Vivienne Westwood and the late Alexander McQueen.

If you look at the history of the female silhouette throughout the decades, the one people remember most is the soft hourglass shape, revived in the 50’s by Christian Dior. Corsetry doesn’t discriminate, you can be any size or shape and it will create a beautiful soft, curvy silhouette. You walk differently, breathe differently and carry yourself as a new woman.


What did you love most about the corsetry short course?
The advanced skills and incredible techniques I learnt are invaluable where in an industry where garments are mass-produced; these couture techniques are an asset. The different seam types and fabric strengthening applications we used are incredibly useful as well as learning how to focus on advanced structure and fit. You really have the chance to grow and perfect your skills which is essential if you want to work in couture, bridal, formalwear or in the costume industry. It’s so much fun if you love to stretch your knowledge and take pattern-making and garment construction to the next level. Lesley is one of the most uplifting and encouraging lecturers I have worked with, you learn so much and have much more fun when you’re lecturer is so passionate about what they teach.




Did you complete the corsetry course while you were studying fashion design?
Yes I did. I’m glad that I chose to do the course then, as I had over two years of knowledge & experience from TAFE fashion which gave me the confidence and perseverance; and also because I was about to start my graduate collection and I needed to learn these advanced and fascinating techniques fast!

Corsetry and couture
“One should either be a work of art, or wear a work of art.” ~Oscar Wilde
Corsetry, right from its design, to pattern drafting, to garment construction is in a league of its own, it is like constructing a Ferrari that is designed for only one person. It is like couture; you can’t mass-produce it overseas, it is too involved, but it is rewarding tenfold. The skills will last you well into what ever field of fashion you choose. It’s an asset to your portfolio and body of work.

Like what you see, head to Belinda's facebook and blog.

Make your own corset

Design by Belinda Zanello

We caught up with corsetry lecturer Lesley about her upcoming short course and how this one piece of underwear has shaped women's fashion.

Describe the corsetry course in five words.
Inspiring. Unusual. Celebrating women’s curves.

Design by Kellie Anderson

What do you love about being the corsetry lecturer at TAFE? How long have you been teaching?
I’ve been teaching the corsetry course since 2008, and it’s always interesting to meet the people who come to take the course - some come to make corsets for bridal or evening gowns, some come to make fashion garments, some come to make underwear, but all of them are as passionate about corsetry as I am! We have had students come from all over South Australia and even from Melbourne, from all walks of life and interests, and they all talk animatedly about why they want to make corsets!

Tell us about your background in fashion?
I have been working at TAFE SA as a patternmaker since 2002, and as a patternmaking lecturer since 2007. I have been working as a costume maker for dancers and for the theatre in Adelaide since 1999. I became interested in corset making in 2003, and have been studying historical and modern corset making techniques ever since.


What will students do on their first day of the course and what skills will they walk away with?
The moment the students walk in the door, they are measured and fitted for the basic corset. We then talk about how designs can be tweaked and changed to their own personal design. We talk about how fashion silhouettes change, and how corsetry in fashion has changed over the years. We go through many techniques in sewing to work out what will be the best way for the student to proceed, and we talk about the steel boning and metal hardware that goes into making a proper corset, as opposed to a plastic boned bodice. And that’s just on the first day! Over the three days, they learn many tips and tricks to make corset making easier, and by the end of the three days, they not only have a corset that they have made, but enough knowledge to make more and the passion to try different styles.


Corsets - history to the catwalk.
In the corsetry course, we have a focus on the modern shaped corset, but we discuss how the historical shapes have influenced fashion and how they changed the shape of women’s fashion. We talk about the myths and facts about tight-lacing, and why people are wary of corsets. We talk about how corsets constantly make appearances on the catwalk, and how they are used as shock value by fashion designers due to their extreme nature of body-sculpting.

Corsetry is fascinating. I don’t think that there is another item of clothing in the history of fashion that has drawn such extreme reactions from people.

Vintage is back

We chatted with fashion lecturer Jill about the new ‘must do’ short course for 2011 Express Yourself with Fashion where you get to revamp your vintage find – what’s not to love!

Describe the Express Yourself with Fashion course in five words.
Innovation; originality; creation; deconstruction and sustainability.

What do you love about being a fashion lecturer at TAFE?
I love helping people to create something beautiful that is uniquely theirs. It is inspiring and rewarding to watch students skills and confidence grow throughout their studies and to share my own love of fashion with like-minded people.

Tell us about your background in fashion?
I have worked in the fashion industry as a patternmaker for many years and have my own small business. I also work in the CAD suite where we do computer patternmaking for industry. The CAD suite is a TAFE SA initiative which operates as a small business providing patternmaking services to fashion industry.

Designs by Paris Adelaide

What will students do on their first day of the course and what skills will they walk away with?
On the first day we will spend time planning the new garment. This may include some sketching of ideas, discussion of fabrics and embellishments that may be used in the reconstruction. There will also be an opportunity to try the garment on and discuss fitting techniques and alterations that may be necessary. A sequence of work will be established. If there is time we will begin by trialling certain techniques and learning to use the sewing machines before we begin altering the garment. Depending on the complexity of the garment there may be time to recreate several pieces.

Trends in vintage fashion.
Vintage fashion has been big for a number of years now but it is now taking centre stage on Paris catwalks with many labels reconstructing and recycling vintage garments for very expensive prices - think One Vintage and Riley. There are also many Australian labels recycling and revamping vintage clothes. People are becoming much more aware of sustainable and ethical clothing.

Intergalactica with Hannah Buchanan

We chatted with grad Hannah about her Intergalactica collection and her plans for 2011.



First thought when you saw your collection on the catwalk?
Relief! I was so tense through the parade leading up to the moment when my outfits were on stage. It wasn't until all my garments had been shown that I was able to breathe again! I kept having thoughts that something would fall apart or come out wrong, but everything was fine. It was so exhilarating to see the last six months of my life up on a catwalk for everyone to see and have my family and friends there watching. After the parade it was such a strange feeling, I think everyone felt a bit lost and wasn't sure what to do, producing our collections had completely consumed our lives. It also meant that the last three years of study was over and we were ready to go onto our next adventures, which is a bit daunting.


Why do you love fashion?
I can’t imagine myself doing anything but fashion. It excites me. I think I’m lucky to be in a field that doesn’t feel like work and I can look forward to it every day. To me fashion is like a fairytale. That’s the only way I can describe the overwhelming feeling when I see a designer’s collection that is so outrageous and fascinating, it doesn’t seem real. To wear something that makes you feel fabulous can completely change your mood and confidence, it can be really empowering.

What plans are in the pipeline for 2011?
Next year, I hope to gain employment within the Adelaide fashion industry. I will have my own creative outlet through selling my designs at the Gilles St Market, North Adelaide Market, or online in my own time.

Style muse?
To be honest I don't a have any one person who is my style muse. When I design clothes, I get inspired by designers who continually push boundaries and have original, extraordinary designs. Viktor and Rolf are amazing at this; each collection is bigger and better than the previous, and they always surprise. They give me something to strive for. When I’m designing I always look back and question if my ideas are different and unusual. I guess ultimately I design things that I'd love to wear, not necessarily realistically or in everyday life, but imagining what I’d wear if I was...


Like what you see, contact Hannah on hannahbuchanan@live.com.au and we’ll keep you posted on her 2011 online venture!

Behind the makeup

We caught up with TAFE SA beauty lecturer and makeup artist Grace who worked behind the scenes during the Adelaide Fashion Festival with Dale Dorning - creating the gorgeous makeup looks paraded on the catwalk.



What was the highlight for you working with Dale at the Adelaide Fashion Festival?
Dale is well recognised within the industry of makeup and also the celebrity world and having observed him I have a higher respect for his skill, professionalism, mentoring and imparting information. He has a great skill of producing effective makeup without looking made up. Having worked on the many parades (indoor, outdoor, day and evening) he has helped me see makeup for the various events through his eyes.


Favourite event?
Boutique Runway at Bonython Hall, the makeup was perfection. The ambience of the hall followed through with the look that was created - flawless skin, vibrant purple glitter on lower eyes and nude lips.

Describe working behind the scenes at the TAFE fashion parade?
Dale and I had reproduced the looks prior to the event. Each look was passed onto the individual makeup artist, so at the event the backstage everyone was calm and confident. We had lots of talking and laughter with each other and the models. We mostly worked on different makeup areas – production line style - so we had every model looking the same.


What do you love about working in the beauty industry?
I love working in the beauty industry as we are forever learning and expanding our knowledge with new services and products. I really enjoy the client interaction and providing not only services but my knowledge onto them.

Tips for students wanting to work as a makeup artist in the fashion industry?
Explore the industry and chat with professional makeup artists .Try to shadow them during their work so that you can see the various talents they all have, try to help out or just observe the behind the scenes at fashion parades or photographic shoots, so you can build your knowledge. Get confident in all areas of make up – practice, practice, practice until you get confident.


What beauty product can you not live without?
Tinted moisturiser – fantastic base for any look.

Trends for summer makeup?
Colour –lips and nails, either soft colour to bold and bright.

Win an outfit from the Gilles Street Market Collection

You have the chance to win an outfit from the TAFE SA second year fashion design students’ exclusive Gilles Street Market collection.

The outfit up for grabs is a white cotton elastane singlet with feather and chain detailing on the back and a cute pair of charcoal shorts with a paper bag waist.


All you have to do is tell us in 25 words or less where you would wear this cute summer combo, along with your dress size so we can send out the right fit for you!

Don’t forget TAFE SA students will be selling their fashion lines at the Gilles Street Market on 5 and 12 December.

To enter:
1. Go to the Fashion at TAFE SA Facebook and share the page and competition with all your friends.
2. Send us an email at marketing.acc@tafesa.edu.au with where you would wear this cute outfit, your dress size and your daytime contact phone number.

The competition closes Friday 26 November at 12pm (noon), and the winner with the best answer as judged by our panel will be notified via phone or email.

Lingerie designer Lani De Beer

We had a tête-à-tête with Lecturers Choice winner Lani on her love of designing lingerie and dream to design for Victoria's Secret!


Why do you love fashion?
Fashion to me is way of expressing yourself. To me the most important part of my wardrobe is my Lingerie and the shoes to match! I love the way it makes you feel. Sexy, confident, sweet, seductive and ready to take on anything that comes your way! Lingerie is your foundation, your base - whether you wear it just as under wear or if you decide to show a little peek through your outfit. I love in current trends wearing your lingerie as outerwear and how lingerie inspires new beautiful fashion.

Plans for Adelaide, Australia and/or beyond?
Now that I've graduated, I'm ready to take on the world. I am aiming to relocate to Sydney in February next year, where I hopefully will be picked up by a Lingerie company. It would be a great experience to work for established company and learn and learn as much as my brain will allow. I want to go to Europe and check out all the little boutiques, then to America where I would love to work with Victoria’s Secret. In the years to come I would like to start up my own lingerie label and create timeless fantasy pieces with classy style and perfect fit.


What was the highlight of your course?
I can't believe that three years have gone! But with highlights like the SAJC spring race carnival where the whole class designed and constructed two outfits each that were displayed in our very first parade! My first outfit was an ivory satin and lace knee length dress inspired by a lady, who was very sophisticated and proper. My second outfit was a black satin and purple lace, skirt and bodice combo inspired by a punk princess. Our class did a project runway type assignment at the beginning of the year where we designed and constructed for most of us our first swimmers in two weeks. The garments were then displayed in an exhibition along side Jets, Zimmerman and Seafolly. My swimmers were a 1950s sailor inspired one piece. And of course the biggest highlight of all was our graduating night where we showcased six outfits each in a showstopping parade part of the Adelaide Fashion Festival. My lingerie collection Garden Affair was inspired by a Victorian lady sitting in a spring blossoming spring garden, eating delicate delights awaiting her lover.


On winning the Lecturers Choice Award.
On my graduation I was extremely excited to find out that I had won the 2010 Lecturers Choice Award! I had no idea until they announced my name on stage! I won a trip to Melbourne to do a five day pattern making course with Gerber. I think that this is a great opportunity that I'm grateful for. I think the knowledge will definitely contribute to me going further in my career - which I can't wait to start.

Advice to future fashion designers on pursuing this career?
If I had any advice to give to any future fashion designers, it would be don't settle for second best. If you have an idea make it work, experiment, and try new things. Think outside the box and be open minded to constructive criticism, while staying true to you. Take every opportunity to learn and grow - there is so much to take in. And when you see your vision up there for the whole world to see you know that all those long hours and hard work have definitely paid off :)

Style muse/inspiration.
When it comes to being inspired I always have my key inspirations wallpaper, chandeliers, crockery, and anything vintage. I love the 1950s pin up girl who is sweet yet submissive. I think the old Hollywood glamour of the 1930s is classic and elegant. I'm very passionate about dance and the theatre too, the costumes and the fantasy they create. We can't forget the Victorian period which my current collection Garden Affair was strongly influenced by. I take these key inspirations and infuse them with everything else that inspires me including current trends, something I might see on a walk in the park, down the beach or in a movie. I try to utilise all my resources and let my imagination run away.

To find out more about Lani's designs head to her facebook page.